Sunday, February 22, 2004

By David Bear

GETTING THERE:

Canada's capital is a one-hour nonstop flight from Pittsburgh International Airport on US Airways Express. We paid $217 for our round-trip tickets.

Ottawa's annual Winterlude (Bal de Neige) takes place on the first three weekends in February and attracts several hundred thousand participants. In addition to a wide range of entertainment, activities, competitions and other special events, an ice-carving competition produces dozens of impressive sculptures set up on Dow's Lake by the Ice Cafe.

For information about the Rideau Canal Skateway, call 1-613-239-5234 or visit www.canadascapital.gc.ca/skateway. Along with ice conditions, weather forecasts and a complete list of activities and services, there's a wonderful "virtual skate" of the whole length of the Skateway. For information on the Rideau Canal itself, including its history and details about activities and usage, visit www.rideau-info.com.

OTHER THINGS TO SEE:

Parliament Hill, with its three grand federal edifices and sweeping view of the Ottawa River, the Canadian Museum of Civilization, the city of Hull/Gatineau and, in the distance, the Gatineau Hills. Information: www.parl.gc.ca or 1-613-992-4793.

The Canadian Museum of Civilization, where a thousand years of Canadian history are on display across the Ottawa River in Gatineau, including many dioramas and artifacts, costumed interpreters and an Omnimax cinema. Cost (in Canadian dollars): Adults, $10; seniors, $7; youth (13 to 17), $6; children (2 to 12), $4; family (maximum 4; maximum 2 adults), $22. Information: 1-800-555-5621 or www.civilization.ca.

Byward Market, nine square blocks including an arcade with dozens of small shops and restaurants selling the crafts and foods of many ethnicities. Information: 1-613-244-4410 or www.byward-market.com.

The National Gallery of Canada, 380 Susses Drive. 1-613-990-1985 or www.national.gallery.ca.

Gatineau/Hull, the city across the Ottawa River that is far more French than Ottawa. It's blessed with many fine small neighborhood restaurants. We enjoyed a superb meal at Le Pied de Cochon (248 Montcalm Blvd.; 1-819-777-5808).

Gatineau Park, in the hills a 20-minute drive northwest of Ottawa, is a huge, wedge-shaped preserve of more than 100 square miles, with dozens of lakes tucked among the forested hills and laced with more than 100 miles of cross-country ski trails, both set tracks and back-country trails.

WHERE TO STAY:

As might be expected of a national capital, Ottawa has a wide selection of hotels. In addition to the Fairmont Chateau Laurier (one of the grand old Canadian National Railroad hotels), there's a new Westin right on the Rideau Canal, with a Novotel a block a way. We stayed in the Gasthaus Switzerland, which was centrally located three blocks from the start of the Skateway. It's a friendly, charming 22-room inn run by longtime Ottawa residents Sabrina and Josef Sauter. Information: 1-888-663-0000 or www.gasthausswitzerlandinn.com.

For more information on Ottawa, contact the Capital Infocentre at 1-800-465-1867 or www.capcan.ca, or the Ottawa Tourism and Convention Authority at 1-800-363-4465 or www.tourottawa.org.

CUSTOMS TIP

In Canada, both the Federal and Provincial governments tax many goods and services to be purchased in the country, adding up to 15 percent to their cost. The good news: returning travelers can generally claim refunds for the GST, which also includes taxes paid for hotel stays. If you're driving across the border, you can get your refund on the spot. If you're flying, you have to mail a form back after you get home, although goods and receipts must be presented at customs prior to departure. Follow the directions and you can cut the cost of your trip. Refunds can be added directly to your credit card account. Details: 1-902-432-5608 or www.ccra-adrc.gc.ca/tax/nonresidents/visitors/menu-e.html.

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