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Friday, August 17, 2001

By Munch

Sometimes, when perfection is unsought, we find it anyhow, wrapped in a steamed poppyseed bun and topped with slivers of tangy pickle.

		Getting there D's Six Pax & Dogz is at 1118 S. Braddock Ave. in Swissvale. Hours are 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. weekdays and Sundays; 11 a.m. to 12 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. Call (412) 241-4666.

We realize that we are in our element while seated in the midst of an impressive, nay, astonishing, selection of beers from around the world, housed and chilled for consumption on the unlikely side of town. The fries are crispy, steaming and fragrant. The joint is small, fun, friendly, active -- with no hipsters in sight.

Except Munch and FOM, of course.

It happens. Really.

Though rare, it's possible to have this sort of serendipitous experience in a hot dog joint, as Munch did recently at the incongruously named D's Six Pax & Hot Dogz Shoppe in Swissvale. Who would have thunk it, but beyond the unassuming facade are great hot dogs and dizzying possibilities for beer consumption.

These elements make it the perfect Munch hangout. Munch may have to lay claim to a stool there or -- would it not destroy Munch's anonymity -- have "D's Dogz 4-Ever" tattooed on the right Munch bicep in gratitude for its existence. D's takes two items simple Munch cannot live without -- hot dogs and beer -- and elevates them beyond mere ballyard fare.

In some circles -- not Munch's -- D's is already famous for its selection of draft exports and microbrews and the build-your-own-six-pack back room, with strange, interesting and hard-to-find beers from practically every country where beer is produced. Round 'em up for takeout and you can sample multitudes of curious beers from the comfort of your own couch.

But that would be missing out not only on the draft beers, but also the experience of eating at D's. Pull up a stool or snag one of the three small tables in the front room, as Munch did, select a draft or a bottle from the wall of coolers and use it to wash down a real Chicago-style "dawg."

Though a friend told Munch that the few food choices at D's were there only to justify the sale of six- packs -- circumventing the archaic Pennsylvania liquor laws Munch often decries -- the food is not only good and cheap, but prepared with care. The choices are limited, but rest assured that they're perfectly paired to beer: hot sausage, kielbasa, chicken, hamburgers, onion rings, chili cheese fries.

What makes a hot dog "Chicago-style" is what tops them: chopped onions, chunks of tomato, relish, a pickle spear, itty-bitty pepperoncini, artful lines of yellow mustard and a sprinkling of celery salt ($2.50). If you, Primanti's-loyal Pittsburgh readers, haven't tried it, you should.

"Gimme a dawg," Munch drawled, happily slinging back an excellent Anchor Liberty Ale ($3). FOM, a Chicago dog virgin, put his faith in Munch and liked the dog so well he gobbled it up and ordered another.

Always the aesthete, FOM splurged for what must be the Rothschild-Lafitte of draft beer: a Belgian called Delirious Tremens ($6.75). It came in a goblet, which looked a little incongruous next to the basket of fries.

Loyal readers often e-mail Munch inquiring about places to get a good hot dog. Munch will often recommend Yovi's, Downtown, which, unfortunately, has difficult daytime hours. And even loyal Munchers, like so many residents of the Greater Pittsburgh area, just don't want to come Downtown. Sigh.

Happily, D's is just as good as Yovi's and located in a neighborhood where the parking is free.

Munch can't wait to return to D's, time after time, with FOM after FOM, not only for the dogs and every beer Munch can imagine, but also for the draft root beer floats ($1.50). Munch can stop by with POM (parents of Munch) and T-ball superstar COM (cousin of Munch) after an exhausting afternoon at the Braddock Avenue Frick Park baseball field.

And with the Pirates' record, enjoying a snack at D's sure is preferable to having your hot dogs at PNC Park.