Home >  Lifestyle >  Food

Thursday, May 22, 2003

By Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette Staff Writer

If you love to grill hamburgers and hot dogs, you might think throwing some chicken on the heat is no big deal. Just slather it with barbecue sauce, turn it over every once in a while, and voila! Everyone will swear you were born in Texas.

Maybe not.

	Illustration by Stacy Innerst, Post-Gazette Here are a few tips from the Hearth, Patio and Barbecue Association

As anyone who has ever dried out or charred a piece of chicken beyond recognition can attest, poultry requires some special attention.

Memorial Day weekend officially kicks off the grilling season, so if you haven't already dusted off your charcoal or gas grill and scrubbed the rack clean with a wire brush, it's time to get busy.

With three of four U.S. households owning at least one grill, outdoor cookery has become an American pastime. Grilling is especially popular in Northeastern cities such as Pittsburgh, where after a cold, snowy winter, folks can't wait to get outside and bask in the sun. Why heat up the kitchen when you can create a great-tasting meal in the sunny outdoors with a minimum of fuss?

Almost anyone can slap hamburgers or hot dogs on the grill and, as long as they pay attention to the fire, prepare something that will please even the pickiest eater. Grilling chicken, though, takes a defter hand.

If you cook a skinless, boneless chicken breast (today's choice for healthful eaters) too slowly on too low a heat, the meat will dry out and lose its flavor. Conversely, if you grill skin-on chicken pieces too quickly on too high a heat, grease dripping from the skin onto the coals will cause flames to flare, burning the outside and leaving the meat uncooked.

"Everyone is in such a hurry to get the meat done, they don't do it right," laments Sam DiBattista, owner/chef of Vivo restaurant in Bellevue. "They get discouraged when it takes a long time."

So what's a backyard chef do to?

The only way to cook skinless, boneless chicken breasts and still keep the meat juicy, says DiBattista, is to do it quickly, on a good, hot grill. How hot? You should be able to hold you hand over the grill for only about 3 seconds.

Skin-on pieces with bones, on the other hand, should be grilled on a low heat for an hour or more to assure they're cooked all the way through.

"Long and slow is the key," says DiBattista.

The chicken is ready when the juices run clear and the meat has an even white color and an internal temperature of about 170 degrees. But pierce the meat only when you're sure it's done, otherwise valuable juices will be lost in the process. (If your eye isn't as seasoned as DiBattista's, you may want to use a meat or instant-read thermometer to be sure.)

Another common mistake is not to rub or spray a little bit of oil on the grill rack before you start cooking, to keep the chicken from sticking.

Or, worse yet, adding barbecue sauce before the chicken is nearly finished. The natural inclination is to slather chicken legs and wings with sauce as soon they're placed on the grill. To avoid flare-ups, though, sauces should be brushed on only at the end of the process, says DiBattista.

Gaynor Grant, owner/instructor of Sewickley Cooking Studio, which opened in February, goes one step further. She suggests patting all meat dry before putting it on the grill, even if it's been soaking in a marinade for the recommended two hours to overnight.

"You even want to brush off any shallots or herbs, because they'll burn and affect the flavor of the meat," she says.

That said, a marinade made with oil and some sort of acid is key if you want tender chicken with a kick of flavor. The oil helps keep the meat lubricated while the acid (lemon or lime juice, vinegar, wine or soy sauce) act as a tenderizing agent.

"The acid will break down the fibers and connective tissues in the meat," she says.

Depending on everyone's appetite -- and the rest of the menu -- plan for about 10 ounces of chicken per person. That amounts to approximately one-half of a large chicken breast, two drumsticks or two thighs per person.

If you do it properly, barbecuing takes time, so prepare some snacks for guests to eat while they're waiting for the main dish. Low-cal, easy-to-prepare dishes such as a vegetable platter will take the edge off hunger without spoiling anyone's appetite for the meal.

And while good conversation can pass the time while the hosts handle the grill, it's not a bad idea to plan some traditional games such as volleyball, bocce, croquet or horseshoes.

Also, don't forget to supply plenty of drinks, especially if it's hot outside. Beer and sangria are standard barbecue fare, while old-fashioned lemonade made with lemon juice and sugar will please kids and non-drinkers.

And no cook-out would be complete without something sweet. One simple idea from DiBattista: toss hulled, sliced strawberries with some natural raw sugar and then drizzle the fruit with a good, 30-year-old balsamic vinegar. Delizioso!

Grilled Chicken With Vegetable Salsa

• 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breast
  
• 1 or 2 cloves garlic, minced
  
• Salt and pepper to taste

Season chicken breasts with salt and pepper and minced garlic.

Clean the grill off with a grill brush and a towel, and lightly brush with olive oil to keep chicken from sticking. Heat grill on a medium-high setting for 5 minutes. (You should be able to hold your hand over the grates for only 3 seconds.)

Place chicken on grill and cook about 8 to 10 minutes, or until chicken is fork tender and juices run clear, turning once.

Remove immediately, and serve with scoop of vegetable salsa (recipe below).

For the salsa:

• 2 tomatoes, coarsely diced
  
• 1 red bell pepper, coarsely diced
  
• 1 small red onion, coarsely diced
  
• 1/2 cup cilantro or flat-leaf parsley, chopped
  
• 1 clove garlic, minced
  
• Good-quality, extra virgin olive oil
  
• 1 red chili, chopped (optional)
  
• Salt and pepper to taste

Combine vegetables and seasonings in a small mixing bowl. If you like a little heat, add a chopped red chili.

Add enough olive oil to coat, and toss. Allow to sit at room temperature for about an hour. Serve with grilled chicken breast.

Serves 4 to 6.

Sam DiBattista, Vivo restaurant

Marinated Chicken With Curried Nectarine Relish

Marinade:

• 1/4 cup canola oil
  
• 1/4 cup cider vinegar
  
• 2 bay leaves
  
• A few drops of Tabasco sauce
  
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
  
• 1 teaspoon black pepper
  
• 1 pound boneless chicken breasts

Combine marinade ingredients in a non-corrosive bowl, and add the chicken. Allow to marinate for 1 to 2 hours.

Remove the chicken from the marinade, and grill or broil for 6 to 8 minutes on each side.

Remove from the grill and arrange on a large serving platter or individual plates and top with a little of the relish (see recipe below).

To serve the marinade: Place the remaining marinade in a small pan and heat to boiling point. Serve with chicken.

Serves 4.

Relish:

• 3 nectarines, finely diced (you could substitute peaches)
  
• 1/2 cup finely diced onions
  
• 1/4 cup finely diced red pepper
  
• 1/4 cup raisins
  
• 1/4 cup chopped walnuts
  
• 1 tablespoon dried red pepper flakes
  
• 1/4 cup cider vinegar
  
• 1/4 cup sugar
  
• 1 to 2 teaspoons curry powder

Place all ingredients in a glass or plastic bowl and blend together well.

Refrigerate overnight if possible to enhance the flavor.

Gaynor Grant, chef/owner, Sewickley Cooking Studio

Easy Barbecued Chicken

• 2 pounds chicken pieces
  
• 1 or 2 cloves garlic, minced
  
• Red pepper flakes
  
• Salt and pepper

Wash chicken and dab dry with a paper towel, then season with salt, pepper, pepper flakes and minced garlic.

Clean the grill off with a grill brush and a towel, and lightly brush with olive oil to keep chicken from sticking. Heat grill on a medium-low setting for 5 minutes.

Grill chicken, skin side up and with grill top down, for about an hour to an hour and a half, turning occasionally. Chicken is done when meat is fork-tender and juices run clear. At the last minute, baste chicken with barbecue sauce (recipe below), turning once to allow sauce to "dry." Take off grill immediately, and serve with side of barbecue sauce.

Serves 6.

Easy barbecue sauce

• 1 cup ketchup
  
• 1/4 cup molasses
  
• 1 teaspoon chili powder
  
• 1 teaspoon garlic powder
  
• One pinch red pepper flakes
  
• 1 tablespoon brown sugar
  
• 1 teaspoon vinegar

Mix ingredients together in small saucepan, and cook over medium heat until bubbly. Use to baste chicken on grill after it is cooked or on the side.

Makes about 1 cup.

Sam DiBattista, Vivo restaurant

Jane's Bourbon Baked Beans

• 3 1/2 pounds plain baked beans (canned)
  
• 2/3 cup bourbon (see note)
  
• 4 tablespoons packed brown sugar
  
• 1 teaspoon instant coffee powder or crystals
  
• 1 teaspoon prepared mustard

Mix ingredients in a large bowl, and then place in a large casserole dish. Bake at 350 degrees for 40 to 45 minutes.

Serves 10.

Tester's note: This recipe has a distinct bourbon taste; if you prefer something lighter, cut the bourbon to 1/3 cup.

Jane Elizabeth, Mt. Lebanon

Asparagus Sandwiches

• 1 red bell pepper
  
• 3 tablespoons mayonnaise
  
• 1 tablespoon grainy mustard
  
• 1 1/2 teaspoons red miso (we substituted concentrated tomato paste)
  
• 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
  
• 1 small garlic clove, minced
  
• 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
  
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
  
• 16 thick asparagus (1 1/2 pounds)
  
• 1 medium red onion, thickly sliced
  
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  
• Eight 1/2--inch-thick slices peasant bread
  
• 1/4 cup chopped basil

Light grill or preheat a grill pan. Grill the bell pepper until charred all over. Transfer to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let steam for 5 minutes. Peel the pepper and discard the skin, core and seeds, and then slice 1/2 inch thick.

In a small bowl, mix the mayonnaise with the mustard, miso, lemon juice, garlic and cayenne pepper. Season the mayonnaise with salt and pepper.

Brush the asparagus and onion slices with the olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Grill over a moderately hot fire until the asparagus are crisp-tender and the onion slices are tender, about 5 minutes per side for each. Transfer the vegetables to a platter. Toast the bread slices on the grill.

Spread the garlic mayonnaise on 4 slices of toast and sprinkle with the basil. Top with the asparagus, onion and strips of red pepper. Close the sandwiches, cut them in half and serve.

Serves 4.

Food & Wine, July 2002

Red Cabbage And Stilton Salad

• 2 tablespoons cider vinegar
  
• 1 pound red cabbage, cored and thinly sliced
  
• 2 ounces bacon, cut into 1/2-inch dice
  
• 2 teaspoons butter
  
• 2 slices firm-textured white bread, crusts removed, and cut into 1/4-inch cubes
  
• 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
  
• 1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
  
• 2 teaspoons canola oil
  
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
  
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
  
• 2 ounces Stilton cheese

Place prepared cabbage in a large pot of boiled, salted water, and add the cider vinegar. Blanch for 30 seconds, drain and allow to chill in a bowl of ice water. Drain well and place in a large salad bowl.

Fry the prepared bacon in a small skillet until brown and crisp. Place bacon and drippings in a small bowl.

Melt the butter in a large skillet and saute the bread cubes until golden brown. Remove and drain on a paper towel.

Add the red wine vinegar, mustard, oil, salt and pepper to the bacon and drippings, stir well.

Pour over the cabbage and toss to coat. Add the Stilton, toss again and sprinkle with croutons. Serve immediately.

Serves 6.

Gaynor Grant, chef/owner, Sewickley Cooking Studio

Pink Lemonade

• 1 cup sugar
  
• 10 cups water
  
• 1 cup lemon juice
  
• 1/4 cup grenadine
  
• 1/2 pint fresh raspberries or strawberries (optional)

Cook sugar and 1 cup water in a saucepan, stirring constantly, until sugar dissolves. Cool; pour into a large container.

Stir in remaining 9 cups water, lemon juice, grenadine and, if desired, berries.

Chill 2 hours.

Makes 3 quarts.

Southern Living, July 2001