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My friend Pam Sowa brings me ramps, foraged from the woods near Elkins, W.Va. I used scallions here, but I'm eager for my yearly ramp fix. "In about 3 weeks," Pam promised.

• 1/2 pound ramps or 2 large bunches scallions, trimmed (ramps are cleaned and trimmed like scallions)

  2 pounds fresh asparagus, tough ends trimmed, peeled if you like
  

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  
• Slice asparagus and ramps in 2-inch pieces.

Toss vegetables almost constantly with two spoons until they are beginning to caramelize and are tender but not soft, 7 to 8 minutes. Pile vegetables on a platter and let stand for 5 minutes; their own heat will cook them a bit more. Serves 4 to 6

"The Hudson River Valley Cookbook" by Waldy Malouf

Thursday, March 27, 2003