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Chef Charlie Palmer's cooking pleases the sophisticates at his Aureole Restaurants in New York and Las Vegas. But his toughest critics are his four preteen sons. They give eight thumbs up for this Palmer lunchtime treat.

• 3 cups grated or chopped cheese (such as Gruyere or farmhouse cheddar)
  
• 1 cup minced cooked ham or other cooked or smoked meat
  
• 3 tablespoons milk
  
• 2 tablespoons grated onion
  
• 2 tablespoons prepared mustard, plus extra for serving
  
• 1/2 teaspoon well-drained horseradish, (optional, for adults)
  
• 12 slices whole-grain or sourdough raisin bread
  
• 3 tablespoons butter, softened

Combine the cheese, meat, milk, onion, mustard and optional horseradish in a medium bowl. Stir until very well blended. Generously spread the mixture on 6 slices of bread. Top with the remaining bread. Generously butter both sides of each sandwich.

Preheat a griddle over medium heat. When hot, add as many sandwiches as will fit on the griddle without crowding. Toast for about 3 minutes per side, or until the bread is golden and crisp and the cheese has melted. Remove the sandwiches from the griddle and keep warm in a low oven while you toast the remaining sandwiches.

Slice each sandwich on the diagonal and serve, with additional mustard and, if desired, crunchy pickles. Makes 6 sandwiches.

--"Charlie Palmer's Casual Cooking"

Thursday, July 04, 2002