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Food
Dining Out: Chef Ruta, D.C. restaurant singled out

Thursday, July 05, 2001

By Woodene Merriman, Post-Gazette Dining Critic

McKeesport's Frank Ruta is on the cover of July's Food & Wine magazine, as one of "America's best new chefs 2001."

Ruta is chef/owner of the new, highly acclaimed Palena restaurant in Washington, D.C. But he isn't really a "new chef." Ruta was at the White House for many years, frying chicken for Jimmy Carter, broiling steak until well done for Ronald Reagan and preparing shad roe for George Bush the elder.

Food & Wine is honoring him "because his versions of authentic Italian dishes have an unusual and welcome depth of flavor." If you want to check out his skills for yourself, Palena is at 3529 Connecticut Ave. NW, (202) 537-9250.

Other best chefs named by Food & Wine are Kelly Courtney, Mod, Chicago; Wylie Dufresne, 71 Clinton Fresh Food, New York City; Sandro Gamba, Nomi, Chicago; Randy Lewis, Indigo, New Orleans; Anita Lo, Annisa, New York City; Will Packwood, Emilia's, Austin, Texas; E. Michael Reidt, Bomboa, Boston; Craig Stroll, Delfina, San Francisco; Johnathan Sundstrom, Earth & Ocean, Seattle.

Ruta, born in McKeesport in 1957, is a graduate of the American Culinary Federation's apprenticeship program. He was an apprentice at the old Lemon Tree restaurant before the White House beckoned.

Food & Wine features one of his favorite recipes, Stuffed Zucchini Blossoms, in the July issue, too. He says they "taste like walking through the forest. I fill them with lovage, sorrel, nettles -- all the weeds in my back yard."


Romantic memories

Top of the Triangle is planning a romantic finale to cap its 30 years in Pittsburgh. The restaurant atop the USX Tower will close Sept. 29.

For all those years, Top of the Triangle has been a favorite spot for weddings, proposals, anniversaries and great dates. Members of the staff have become proposal pros, helping hopeful bridegrooms to pop the question by hiding rings in desserts and champagnes. One suitor hired a plane to fly by pulling a banner with the message "Melissa, will you marry me?" Melissa said yes.

To enter the contest, Melissa and others are encouraged to share their Top of the Triangle memories on entry forms available at the restaurant. The forms can be dropped off in the entry box there. Prizes will include a getaway at Nemacolin Woodlands Resort and Spa and dinners at the Top of the Triangle, Roxy Cafe and Cheese Cellar. Winners will be chosen by random at the end of each month through September. Some stories may be used for promotional purposes. Sounds like fun!


Now catering

Tallulah's is a new Pittsburgh catering service headquartered in Millvale and operated by two chefs -- Sean Conley and Michael Cope. Conley, a Culinary Institute of America graduate, and Cope, a graduate of the Pennsylvania Culinary, are specializing in complete box lunches, private dinner parties, wedding and corporate functions. They can be reached at 412-821-3144.


Treasury luncheon

When Pittsburgh's Paul O'Neill became secretary of the Treasury, he was honored at a luncheon at the Metropolitan Club in Washington, D.C. It was given by past secretaries of the Treasury, in keeping with a Washington tradition. They dined on lobster bisque, Caesar salad, rack of spring lamb in a minted bread crust, champagne brut, Trefethen chardonnay, and a most appropriate sounding dessert: Sweet Sound Dollar.

The guest list contained some familiar names: Richard Cheney, Alan Greenspan, James Baker, Lloyd Bentsen, Paul Volcker, Lawrence Summers and George Shultz among them. Most brought their wives, too.

Imagine the free advice that must have been passed around the table.


Restaurant seminar

Drew Nieporent, the master restaurateur who includes the Steelhead Grill among his creations, and food expert Ed Levine are going to lead a Nov. 3-4 seminar in New York City for people who want to open a restaurant and make it last. The fee is $795 per person for the two days, which sounds expensive but is cheaper than going broke after a few months with a poorly planned new restaurant. It will be held at Nieporent's Tribeca Grill. Contact Catherine Loup at (212) 362-3409.


Speakeasy patio

With the approval of the Liquor Control Board, Sewickley Speakeasy, Haysville, now can serve alcohol to outdoor diners on its patio, Deborah Pivaronas, president, reports.


Bastille Day in Shadyside

Le Perroquet Bistro Francais will celebrate Bastille Day starting at 4 p.m. July 14. For this annual celebration, the restaurant moves out into the street with French music by the Jack Purcell quartet, French food and dancing.

And they'll be dancing in the street (well, actually the parking lot) at D'Imperio's in Wilkins, after al fresco dining on some warm summer Friday nights, too. Bill Dell's Wee Jams will be there July 13 and Aug. 17, Jimmy Sapienza's 5 Guys Named Moe July 20 and Vito Di Salvo's We Three on Aug. 24. It's $35 for a four-course dinner, music and dancing. Reservations: 412-823-4800.


Woodene Merriman can be reached by e-mail at wmerriman@post-gazette.com, or by mail at the Post-Gazette, 34 Boulevard of the Allies, Pittsburgh, PA 15222. In tomorrow's Weekend, she reviews Rebecca Tambellini in Shaler.

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