Purchase whole fish from a store that does a brisk business and keeps them well chilled on plenty of ice. Look for red gills and skin that has a sheen and is firm to the touch. Fish should have a sweet (never fishy) smell. If you can buy the fish alive and have it killed and gutted at the store, you'll know it's fresh.
1 1/2 to 2 pounds whole fish (head and tail on), scaled and gutted; choose from striped bass, sea bass or red snapper
1 scallion, thinly sliced
2 cilantro sprigs, leaves only
3 tablespoons peanut oil
1 1/2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into very fine slivers (about 1/2 cup)
2 garlic cloves, cut into fine slivers
4 1/2 teaspoons dry sherry or rice wine
4 1/2 teaspoons soy sauce
1/4 teaspoon sugar
Scale fish if necessary and rinse well. Pat dry, then place on heat-proof dish or platter large enough to hold it.
Place large roasting pan (large enough to hold platter of fish) over 2 burners. Set wire rack in pan. Add water to just cover rack. Bring to boil over high heat.
Place platter of fish on rack. Cover fish and roasting pan securely with 2 sheets of heavy-duty foil (don't press down on fish). Reduce heat to medium-high.
Steam fish 12 to 15 minutes, depending on size. (Halfway through cooking, check water level, adding more boiling water if necessary.) Test for doneness by poking chopstick or sharp knife through thickest part. Fish should flake easily and look opaque all the way to the bone.
When fish is done, with sturdy tongs, remove platter from rack. Use turkey baster or spoon to discard any accumulated liquid from dish. Sprinkle scallion and cilantro leaves over fish. Cover loosely to keep warm.
In medium skillet, warm oil over medium-high heat. Add ginger and garlic and stir-fry 1 minute, or until ginger is limp and fragrant. Add sherry, soy sauce and sugar; remove from heat.
Pour hot oil mixture over fish and serve.
Makes 4 to 6 servings as part of multicourse meal or serves 2 to 3 if it's the main course.
Adapted from "Every Grain of Rice"
by Ellen Blonder and Annabel Low
Sunday, January 21, 2001
