Joan Gordon makes the most of chanterelles by combining their woodsy subtle flavor and silky, chewy texture with cream, onions, chicken and a grind of fresh nutmeg. A medium-bodied red wine such as a cabernet sauvignon or a merlot is a good choice. For a memorable first course, you might omit the chicken, deglaze with white wine and serve over fresh angel hair pasta with a glass of sauvignon blanc.
6 bone-in chicken breasts, skinned
1 pound chanterelles, halved if larger than 2 inches
1 onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped fine
1 cup chicken broth
1/4 cup dry bourbon or dry white wine
1 cup heavy cream
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 1/2 tablespoons butter
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt to taste
Handful of parsley, coarsely chopped
Brown the chicken breasts in the butter and olive oil. Remove from pan. Saute the onion, garlic and chanterelles until the onion is translucent but has not begun to brown. Deglaze the pan with the bourbon or wine. Add the broth, nutmeg and reserved chicken. Cover the pan and cook over medium-low heat about 10 to 15 minutes, or until the chicken is done but not overcooked. (Chicken may be held at this point for up to an hour and finished just before serving.) Remove the chicken to a heated platter, turn the heat to high and reduce the sauce to about 1/4 to 1/2 cup. Salt to taste. Add cream, bring to a boil, and reduce sauce to a desired consistency. Pour the sauce over the chicken, garnish with parsley and serve. Serves 4 to 6.
Michael Wood
Sunday, September 17, 2000