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Meltaway Saute of Veal

Dishes don't come much simpler than this Corsican family favorite of Marie Jose Cervoni, who now tends the stoves and the dining room at the legendary Paris bistro, Chez La Vielle. Accompany with an endive salad with a tart, mustardy dressing.

3 tablespoons olive oil
2 to 21/2 pounds boneless veal shoulder, cut into 2-inch cubes
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
2 large onions, peeled and quartered
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 large bunch parsley, tied with kitchen twine
2 bay leaves
1 pound cooked penne pasta

Heat the oil over medium heat in a large heavy pot or casserole. Brown veal in batches, about 10 minutes per batch. Do not crowd pan. Transfer veal to a platter. Season with salt and pepper.

Scrape up browned bits from pan. Add onions and a pinch of salt, cooking until onions are soft and brown on edges, about 10 minutes. Return veal and any juices to pan. Add tomato paste, parsley, bay leaves and cold water to cover to about three-fourths. Cover and simmer 2 hours. The meat should be tender and falling apart. Remove and discard bouquet garni.

Ladle veal into warmed shallow bowls. Toss sauce with pasta and serve alongside veal. Pass additional sauce at table. Serves 6.

Patricia Wells

Thursday, February 18, 1999

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