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Sunday, May 11, 2003

As we are keen on the subject of eating, my friend Nancy Hanst and I keep two grocery lists going at all times. On one, we write what we need. On the other, we keep track of what we've found that is exceptional. When the second list gets long enough, we share.

Who would know better than the man who makes the bread what its assets are? At his Strip District bakery, Nick Ambeliotis lists what attracts customers to MediTerra breads. I agree with every word: crust (a good test for the teeth); baked in a stone hearth steam-injected oven; quality ingredients, such as unbleached, unbromated (no additives), and organic flours, filtered water, sea salt and a natural starter; and slowly developed dough for intense flavor.

Every one of his breads is worth trying. The variety includes French, Italian and Mediterranean styles, among them a Fire Bread that has caused considerable stir reminiscent as it is of a Poilane bread from Paris; Jewish rye, and five specialty breads. Have you ever paid $9 for a loaf of bread? Enter the big time with Chocolate Cherry made with generous chunks of Michael Cluizel French chocolate and first-quality dried Michigan cherries. Serve it swiped with sweet butter or warm and topped with vanilla ice cream.

MediTerra breads can be found at a number of outlets, including Whole Foods, East Liberty, and the MediTerra bakery at Building 8, Parkway West Industrial Park (412-490-9130 for directions). The most fun is to buy bread in the Strip District, Friday and Saturday only. Ambeliotis has taken over the former Schwartz's Bagels, 1901 Penn Ave. He is there to talk with, and several of his seven kids are there handing out samples. It's a scene.

In a recent issue of Vogue magazine, Jeffrey Steingarten wrote an essay on butter. To find his favorite he tasted more than thirty brands, including Land O' Lakes from Minnesota and Plugra from Pennsylvania.

No. 1 on his personal list was Vermont Cultured Butter from Vermont Butter & Cheese, Websterville, Vt. He describes it as "wonderfully fresh, tangy and nutty." From the company, I learned that this butter is churned in small batches for freshness, is cultured for flavor, is 86 percent butterfat (cooks to a higher temperature without burning and makes lighter, flakier pastry) and is salted very lightly to enhance flavor). It is truly delicious. Eight-ounce rolls of the butter are available at such stores as McGinnis Sisters, Monroeville, $3.75, and Whole Foods, East Liberty, $3.99.

I love brioche. I use to make it, but it takes too long, and why should I bother when I can buy just as good at Jean-Marc Chatellier Bakery in Millvale. The eggy, buttery brioche is available Wednesdays through Saturdays and occasionally on Tuesdays. It's best to call for this reason and for another -- by 10 a.m., the brioche may be all gone. It has happened to me. Chatellier makes only 5 dozen at a time of the plain brioche (for breakfast), the coarsely sugared (for dessert) and, on a whim, the chocolate, which I've never tasted. Each brioche is 89 cents.

There are plenty of delights in this bakery. I have neighbors who buy the croissants 2 dozen at a time. Among Chantellier bestsellers are Breton shortbread cake, $5.85 (sugar, egg yolks, butter and flour), and both poppy-seed and Hungarian-nut rolls, ($6.95). He received instruction for these from a local baker who told him to charge what he had to but to use only the best ingredients. It is advice to which he has paid strict attention.

Jean-Marc Chatellier Bakery, 213 North Ave., Millvale; 412-821-8533. Hours: 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesdays through Fridays; 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturdays. Closed during August.

This wedding was the most extravagant I'd ever attended. To the very last, it was one treat after another. As the glorious wedding cake by Candace Uricchio was being cut, I noticed that a La Prima Cappuccino machine was making its entry. After all the splendid wines, what could be better than a made-to-order coffee?

I expected owner Sam Patti to tell me it was a brand-new idea.

"I've been doing it 15 years," he said.

So you see, I'm right on top of things.

The "cappuccino package" is $240 for two hours and includes the use of an authentic La Cimbali Jr. cappuccino maker, a trained operator to run the machine, all the ingredients (La Prima cappuccinos are 1/3 espresso, regular or decaf, 1/3 milk and 1/3 foam) and logo-imprinted 8-ounce recyclable cups. Or, you may use your own mugs.

Customers are expected to provide a dedicated 110 electrical line, access to water and a sturdy table.

La Prima Espresso Co., 205 21st St., Strip District; 412-281-1922.

Good news from Stone Mountain Farm in Wilmington, Vt.

Ann Ketterer writes: "The sap is running, and we are boiling it as fast we can. The flavor is really good."

Owners Ann and her husband, Gordon, former Pittsburghers and both architects, sell their top-grade maple syrup in pints, quarts, half-gallons and gallons.

Pints are $8 each, $6 for shipping, $88 for a case of 12, $14 for shipping. Nancy Hanst puts together an order with friends, and we get the better shipping price.

Stone Mountain Farm, Box 247, Wilmington, VT 05363 (1-802-464-5238).

Hooray! The East Liberty Farmers' Market, Penn Circle West, opens tomorrow from 3:30 to 7:30 p.m. Art and Larry King will be there with three pre-bagged items from their Valencia farm: spring mix (mesclun) 1/3 pound; new spinach, 8 ounces; and asparagus, 2/3 pound. Each bag, $2.

Basic Roasted Asparagus

• 1 pound medium green asparagus (16 to 20 spears)
  
• About 1 tablespoon olive oil
  
• Fleur de sel or other crisp sea salt
  
• Lemon and orange wedges

Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Bend base of each asparagus spear to snap off fibrous part. Use a roasting pan that holds asparagus closely. Drizzle 1 tablespoon olive oil over them, then shake pan until asparagus is coated. Add more oil as needed to finely film spears. Shake to distribute evenly.

Roast in center of oven 5 minutes. Shake pan vigorously to turn stalks. Roast until tender, about 5 minutes more. Serve at once, with salt and citrus alongside. Makes 2 servings.

"Vegetables" by Elizabeth Schneider